but you have been warned also, if when your wearing the helmet, your eys dont quite meet up with the holes, try wearing the helmet with a beanie on it will raise the helmet a bit and keep it steady as you move. i do not reccomend this way but if you are adventurous enough, and dont have the heart to take a pair of scissors to your finely crafted helmet, (even though both ways requier cutting, this method doesnt lose any matierial) go for it. i did not attempt this style because it was just a novelty halloween helmet, if this was a genuine one, it would be a clamshell. clamshell style having the "mask" part of the helmet seperate from the top and back.
#STORMTROOPER PEPAKURA PROFESSIONAL#
B: you can make it fit very snugly, and give it a very professional look, if my make the helmate a two-piece. this simple solution is not noticeable when its on, ands its also alot easier to get the thing on and off. you have two options: A: the easiest and simplest way to fix this problem is to do as i did, and cut out a good section of your helmet on the bottem, as seen in the attached picture. Then glue the sink aerators in the front bubbles (again, if you made the paper versions, cut them out, it looks a lot better with the chrome sink parts.) EDIT: oh, its been brough to my attention that the neck opening on the bottem is wayyy to small for somones head to fit through. Cut them out before adding the screen) The large part of the triangle should be towards the bridge of the nose. Hot glue the screens in for the eyes (if you were religious about making your helmet, you probably made the paper eye inserts. this will leave you with a square of screen four layers thick stapel the edgs to keep them in place cut diagonally across the square, so you have two screen triangles, four layers thick. Step eight: take your square foot of window screen, and fold it in half twice. a dust mask would be a VERY good idea, unless you want white boogers, or to have an asthma attack. 3 spend alot of time on this step, this is what your final product is going to look like, if theres a line, you will see it in the paint, i neglected to pace myself with this step, and had a deadline to meet, so mine was half-assed on this step, and could have come out much, much better. if you over-sand or sand through the filler, you can always add moar. do not directly sand sharp edges, its easy to sand through them 2. then start sanding start with the coarsest to remove large bumps, and gradually go down to the lowest grit (mine went from 60 to 600) KEEP IN MIND 1. let it dry the longer the better but im impatient and i got mine to dry completly under heat lamps in about 6 hours. dont try to smooth it out, thats what the sandpaper is for.
#STORMTROOPER PEPAKURA CRACK#
increase redgidity in the whole structure crack open your container of filler matierial if your using bondo or another two-part filler matierial, you need to follow the instructions on the side to properly mix the filler, if your using a one part, dont worry about mixing and dip two or three fingers across the top (like its frosting on a cake and you want a taste, but DONT eat it haha) and then smear it onto the model into crevices, around pointy parts, give the whole thing a nice even coat. smooth out the sharp polygons into rounded features 2. Step five: spend a few days repeating the last two steps for the rest of the parts of the helmet, till all the parts have made a crude helmet, if you decided to opt for the non-posterboard model, congratulations! your done! but if you want to wear this as a costume prop, or just for fun, its time to move on to bondo/filler.
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